Wednesday 28 November 2012

SCHOLARSHIP DAY 90: West Portland: International Rose Garden, Hoyt Arboretum and Pittock Mansion

We've hit another milestone in the scholarship. 90 days have passed since I left that quaint little village of Filby; 90 days since I waved goodbye to Britain and started what would be the most interesting 90 days of my life so far.

Yesterday I explored the eastern side of Portland, walking to Mount Tabor, so today I thought I would check out the west. Arguably, there's a whole month's worth of exploration here in west Portland, so I set out early this morning to try and squeeze as much of it as I could into a day. The day was fair, but the Sun spent most of it's time today, trying to break through the haze, and so Portland experienced nine hours of considerably weak light. With a slight windchill, the conditions were perfect for a long hike.

The western area of Portland is elevated considerably, giving the 'Southwest Hills' and 'Arlington Heights' their names. This elevation isn't gradual either; hikers wanting to experience the west have a steep climb to do from the very moment they exit downtown. Housing both on the bottom and on top of this ridge has a contemporary feel, octagonal in shape, with characteristic large windows and flat roofs. I suppose one disadvantage about being on the ridge is no space for a front garden, but I'm sure they make do.


Dominating most of the western ridge aside from the series of recently built housing is Washington Park, perhaps one of the most diverse parks in Portland, and quite possibly one of the most diverse parks I have ever had the pleasure of walking around. Forget all the conventions of city parks, the playground, the large expanse of grass for picnics, concrete paths; Washington Park takes the image of City Parkland to a new level. Here to offer anyone who desires a day away from the hustle and bustle of city life, is a range of attractions. The International Rose Garden, the Hoyt Arboretum, the Pittock Mansion, to name a few, but just walking the spiral cord of paths here is enough to amaze and excite. It's like someone took a path, like a piece of string, and laid it out casually over this park,you never know where your chosen route will lead to and that, for me, is the great attraction about this place.


Wildlife is always good at announcing its presence, and then seeming invisible, even after the most thorough scrutiny. Squirrels chomp madly at their nutty lunch, and then scamper off up a tree trunk, to a place shielded from a buzzing photographer's view. (They've got cameras so wrong; they must learn that we just desire one clear photo!) I did get this image of an East Towhee, a sparrow. They like to spend their time in the undergrowth, but are incredibly sensitive, even to the reticent sounds of my camera motors.


My serendipitous wander through Washington Park eventually led me to the International Rose Test Garden. I wish I was here in the summer, to marvel with glee over all the blossoming roses. Now the fall had arrived here at Portland, the roses had been dead headed. Trimmed stems were scattered all over the park, and there was a great sense of potential here. Although not in flower, I enjoyed wandering around and reading their names: 'Secret', 'Little Anne', 'Dreams'. I sat on a nicely positioned park bench by the corner of the main bed, and over the monotonous drones of traffic in the city in the distance, I heard a rustling in the nearby bushes. Nature being scarce again.


Bordering the Rose Garden was the Hoyt Arbortum. Unlike Seattle's, Portland should be proud to have such a grand arboretum. Mile upon mile of hiking trails, weaving around a dense and flourishing collection of some of the world's most celebrated flora. No portion of the arboretum is barren; and just a day's hike cannot begin to cover this all-encompassing environment. It's a pick and mix bag of plants; the most experienced botanist can only guess what might come next. Despite this medley, everything seems to fit together, in what must have been a tough job in the designing department. The Hoyt Arboretum, in a nutshell, is a completed 1000 piece jigsaw; every piece a different species, but fit together to create a living musuem.


From the good ol' English Oak, to the Himalayan Lilac and the Redwood. The Redwood group are just statuesque; no other words to describe them. It's satisfying to know that here nature really does rule. The bark is rustic with a toasted look about it, as if it has just come out the oven and sprinkled with cinammon; the kind of tan a well cooked flapjack would give. I can't wait to go to the Redwoods in San Francisco.


I did quite a few hours of hiking, in what seemed like an endless labyrinth of trails. Eventually I found what looked like a space dedicated for picnics, so decided to eat lunch there. There I was, miles away from the city again and very content about the distance I'd covered. I sat, munching on my Granola Cereal Bar and my thoughts. If a tree had eyes, would it become bored with its view? How could something so deeply rooted into one spot explore to the extent that I am on this trip. Call me mad, or call me sad, but I pondered over it. Perhaps trees are better explorers than humans. Their mile-length roots delve deep into an underground world; a world that we as humans hardly see unless we dig and disrupt it. Trees, like the Redwood, are so altitudinous, and have a panoramic view of the skyline both day and night; something even the most experienced pilots can't match. Trees are visited by some of the most incredible fauna; species we as humans can sometimes get only a mere passing glance of. Finally, some trees live thousands of years, and are passed by generation after generation of visitors. From one spot, they possibly are the best explorers that this planet has, and I love the fact that the Hoyt Arboretum has gone to all efforts in protecting thousands of them.


Upon more walking this afternoon, I came across something I had planned to see later in the week, but as I was so close, I decided to make an early trip. The Pittock Mansion is perhaps the most remarkable of buildings in Portland, nestled 1000 feet above sea level. (Had I walked that far?) It once was home to Henry and Georgiana Pittock from 1914 to 1919, notable people that gave a lot to the early 20th century Portland population. I didn't go in today, but could see from the exterior, its grandeur. It's easy to understand why this place is regularly visited, both from local residents and those, like me, from far away.


Perhaps one of the best attributes about this place are the views that it overlooks. Yesterday I got a glimpse of Portland, from the east, and it was very satisfying to finally see it from the other side. I could make out Mount Hood and indeed Mount Tabor, set in the background behind what looked, once again, a very dynamic city.


The Sun was setting, and I had a long walk back. For the purposes of not getting lost, I took the same route back, but in the late afternoon sunlight, had a bit of fun, experimenting with my camera. It's great to be able to cover such a distance and be able to stop, and it's even more fulfilling to be able to see this level of natural activity in a city park. Tomorrow should see some more exploration downtown.


No comments:

Post a Comment